자연보호냐 자연방치냐-밴쿠버통신11
캐나다 서부 브리티시컬럼비아(BC) 주의 주도(州都)는 어디일까요. 밴쿠버라고 생각하시겠지요. 무지했던 저만 그렇게 생각했는지 모르겠습니다만 BC주의 주도는 밴쿠버가 아니라 인구 34만 명의 작은 도시 빅토리아(Victoria)라는 사실을 이곳에 와서야 알게 됐습니다.
빅토리아는 BC주 옆 태평양에 떠있는 섬 ‘밴쿠버 아일랜드’에 위치해있습니다. 밴쿠버 아일랜드는 남한의 3분의 1에 달해 섬이라고 하기에 좀 무색합니다. 도시 크기나 국제 기능면에서 보면 밴쿠버의 위상이 훨씬 높습니다만 BC주의 주도는 영국 문화가 가장 먼저 들어와 역사와 전통이 살아 숨쉬고 있는 빅토리아입니다. 분위기가 밴쿠버와는 많이 다릅니다.
빅토리아에는 가을부터 겨울을 거처 봄까지 비가 많이 내립니다. 하지만 5월부터 9월까지는 구름 한 점 끼지 않는 찬란한 날씨가 이어져 본격적으로 전세계에서 관광객들이 쏟아져 들어옵니다. ‘정원의 도시’라는 별명을 갖고 있을 정도로 도시 전체가 꽃으로 범벅이 됩니다.
전 세계 꽃과 나무가 한 자리에 모여있는 부차트 가든(Butchart Garden)은 대표적인 관광명소입니다. 석회암 채굴장을 부차트 부부가 1900년대 초 테마 정원으로 바꾼 곳이라고 합니다. 크게 썬큰(Sunken) 가든, 로즈(Rose) 가든, 재패니즈(Japanese) 가든, 이탈리안(Italian) 가든 등 네 부분으로 나뉩니다. 일본 정원도 당당하게 한 자리를 차지하고 있어 어딜 가나 느끼는 일본의 저력에 새삼 또 배가 아프게 됩니다. 잠시 꽃구경 좀 하시죠.
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이밖에 육중한 모습의 주의사당, 고풍스런 엠프레스(Empress) 호텔, 아기자기한 미니어처 월드 등 이색적인 분위기의 빅토리아는 대표적인 관광지로서의 매력을 도시 곳곳에서 발산합니다. 벽화가 마을 전체를 장식한 슈메이너스(Chemainus), 토템 폴이 곳곳에 서있는 던컨(Duncan), 게 잡이의 본고장 나나이모(Nanaimo) 등 인근 도시는 빅토리아와 함께 관광객 유치의 막강한 시너지 효과를 발휘합니다.
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<>BC주 주의사당
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<>엠프레스 호텔
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<>슈메이너스 벽화 마을
이쯤 해서 이제는 세계적인 관광지 빅토리아에 딴죽을 걸어봅니다. 볼 곳이 사방에 널려있는 빅토리아를 가려면 반드시 배를 타야 합니다. 도시가 섬에 있으니 당연하죠. 자동차를 500여대나 싣는 슈퍼 페리를 타고 밴쿠버에서 빅토리아까지 1시간30분 정도 바다를 가로지르는 것도 사실 정말 훌륭한 추억거리가 됩니다.
하지만 아침 7시부터 저녁 9시까지 1시간 간격으로 운행하는 페리를 시간에 맞게 타는 게 상당히 번거롭습니다. 아침 7시 페리를 타려고 페리터미널에 6시30분쯤 도착해도 성수기에는 탈 수 있다는 보장을 못합니다. 7시 페리를 놓치면 8시(때로는 9시) 페리를 타야 하는데 말이 1~2시간이지 기다리는 지겨움은 병이 날 정도입니다. 물론 예약을 할 수 있지만 비용이 추가로 드는 것은 감안해야 합니다.
페리 이용비용도 만만치 않습니다. 어른이 편도 11.15 캐나다달러, 어린이가 편도 5.60 캐나다달러, 승용차가 편도 39 캐나다달러이니 빅토리아에 한번 갔다 오는 데 드는 페리 이용만 4인 가족을 기준으로 했을 때 세금 포함해서 170 캐나다달러(16만원) 정도 듭니다. 빅토리아 구경하려고 어쩔 수 없이 타야 하는 페리 이용 비용이 아깝지 않을 수 없습니다.
그냥 밴쿠버와 빅토리아 사이에 해저터널을 뚫으면 더 많은 관광객을 유치할 수 있고 비싼 돈을 내고 시간에 맞춰 페리를 타야 하는 번거로움도 덜 수 있을 텐데 하는 생각이 자연스레 들기 마련입니다. 밴쿠버와 빅토리아간 거리도 50km에 불과해 충분히 가능한 일이니 말이죠. 이곳에서도 해저터널 건설의 필요성을 주장하는 목소리도 있긴 합니다.
하지만 여기서 간과한 게 있습니다. 경제적인 효과 등을 감안하지 않고 오로지 자연보호에만 목숨 거는 캐나다 환경론자들의 입김은 거의 전지전능 수준이라는 걸 말이죠. 더군다나 캐나다 국민 대부분도 자연을 훼손해가면서까지 개발을 강행할 필요는 없다는데 동조하고 있어 천재지변이 일어나지 않는 한 이곳 주민들은 해저터널 보다는 불편하고 비싸도 영원히 페리를 이용할 것으로 보입니다.
한강만큼 긴 강을 건너는데 달랑 다리 하나로 버티는, 자연 개발 보다는 보호에 치중하는 나라 캐나다…. 몇 달 이 나라를 경험한 제 눈에는 아직 이 나라의 자연 보호가 애꿎게도, 제가 생각해도 좀 어이없게도 기술력과 자금 부족에 따른 어쩔 수 없는 자연 방치의 핑계로도 보이는 이유는 무엇일까요. 엄청난 자연에 압도당해 생각할수록 부럽고 배가 아파 ‘자연 보호’를 한낱 배부른 소리쯤으로 여기고 오로지 ‘빨리 빨리’에 익숙한 제 자신을 애써 합리화하려 하기 때문이겠죠…. 이상혁기자 next@segye.com
(2007년 5월30일)
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